Interfloor ceiling in a log house. Construction tips from Semenych

In wooden log houses, it is unacceptable to use concrete blocks as floors: load-bearing walls will not withstand such a load. Therefore, all structures are also made of wood: a special installation technology is used for this. The lifespan of the house largely depends on the chosen installation method and quality-made floors.

Wood floors - general provisions

It is also very convenient to make the floor in a wooden frame from wood, so as not to disturb the natural harmony. A floor covering made of material identical to the entire building will only increase the warmth, comfort and softness of shades provided by the log house.

And although humanity has used wood as indoor flooring throughout its history, new, constantly improving installation technologies can sometimes surprise even experienced craftsmen.

In order to be less surprised and be able to carry out the installation yourself, let’s look at all the nuances of this important matter.

Single layer coating

The peculiarity of this coating is that it can be laid either with or without joists. This is affected only by the thickness of the boards being laid. In this case, the distance between products should be no more than sixty centimeters.

Double layer coating

The peculiarity of this floor is that it also has a rough layer on which the insulation material is laid. Both sheet versions and a mound of expanded clay can be used as an insulating material.

Advice: between the finishing and insulating layers you should leave a void of about two centimeters to ensure ventilation. This will prevent the boards from breaking.

When you make a subfloor in a log house with your own hands, you need to consider the following points:

The rough layer should act as a rigidity frame for the entire structure and be the most durable.

mineral wool;
polyurethane;

expanded polystyrene;
glass wool;
mineral mats;
polystyrene foam, etc.

Also very important is the creation of ventilation. Regular ventilation flows dry the base and prevent the appearance and spread of rot and mold.

For this:

We drill holes in the corners of the room or under the walls in a convenient place with a diameter of about half a centimeter.
We close the cluster of holes with decorative special grilles.
Alternatively, ventilation can also be done in the floor fillet.

Insulated floor in a log house

To live in a house permanently, the floors must be insulated. To fix the thermal insulation material, a subfloor is laid. To do this, bars are placed on the lower part of the logs, on which the boards of this floor will rest. The rough flooring may not be continuous, if polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam is used as insulation - the sheathing will also withstand it perfectly. If mineral wool acts as thermal insulation, then it is better to make a continuous subfloor.

Solid subfloor

waterproofing is installed;
the floor is insulated;
vapor barrier is laid;
counter lathing is mounted on the joists;
the floor is laid.

Waterproofing is necessary to protect the thermal insulation material from possible moisture ingress from the subfloor. With proper backfilling, this option is practically excluded, so this is largely a precautionary measure.

Insulation is carried out in two layers. The second layer is laid out so that it covers all the joints of the first layer - this will help avoid cold bridges. If the insulation is made with materials based on polystyrene foam, then the joints can be filled with polyurethane foam.

The vapor barrier is designed to protect the insulation from moisture from entering the house. During human life, the air is constantly saturated with water vapor - with quiet breathing, about 1 liter of moisture is released per day. It is not recommended to tighten the vapor barrier too much during installation - it is better to let it sag slightly.

Wooden blocks are used as counter lathing. It is designed to form an air gap between the insulation and the floor itself. This will keep all the materials dry, which will extend their service life.

The flooring technology is similar to a cold floor. The material used is not necessarily a tongue-and-groove board. These can also be sheets of plywood, on which laminate and other floor coverings can subsequently be laid.

Installation of wooden floors

We have become familiar with the general provisions of this type of coating. Now we will consider in detail the construction of the floor in a log house, made in different ways.

On support pillars

We remove soil from the underground to a depth of half a meter.
Pour gravel or river sand into the freed space. We wet each layer of the embankment and thoroughly compact it with a vibrating plate.
At the end of the process, the level of the pillow should be twenty centimeters higher than the chernozem.
We install support pillars around the perimeter of the building, and then on the inside. We use red bricks or ready-made concrete products as pillars. The installation step is 70-90 cm. We maintain a distance of about a meter between the rows.

You should know: in buildings with a small area you can do without internal supports. Since they can be completely replaced by floor beams.

We lay waterproofing in the form of plastic film or roofing felt on top of the supporting products.

We install timber logs on the water-repellent material.
Using a spirit level, we level the level of the joists by placing wood wedges.
We place them at a distance of about seventy centimeters from each other, securing them with nails.
We lay the boards on top along the light falling from the window.
We install the first one, retreating 10-15 mm from the wall. This will ensure air movement under the decking. When finishing the interior, we will cover it with a baguette.
For better fixation, hammer the nails at an angle. We choose their length so that they are at least twice the thickness of the wood product.
We putty the joints and nail heads and paint. After drying, the coating is ready for further work.

This method of implementing flooring is convenient in buildings that are heated during the cold season. Because frost causes the gravel or sand cushion to expand and can damage or displace the support pillars.

Single from boards

In this case, two execution paths are possible.

If the distance between supports does not exceed one meter:

We lay beams on the ends of the supporting columns.
We fix the boards on them with nails.

If the distance between supports is more than one meter:

On top of the beams we install logs in the form of beams with a cross-section of 5 cm and a pitch of 50-60 cm.
We check the evenness of the surface with a spirit level. If necessary, level it using pads.
After leveling the sheathing, we fix it with steel nails.
Only after the work has been done can the rough or finishing coating be applied.

In both cases, when installing the rough layer, an unedged board is used, and when installing the finishing layer, an unedged board is used.

Double plank

Subsequently, linoleum or laminate can be laid on the rough surface. The finishing one is covered with several layers of varnish.

The price of such work is relatively low, which makes this method the most accessible. A significant disadvantage is poor thermal insulation.

Double plank

Double coating, as we noted earlier, means the presence of both rough and finishing layers.

The following instructions will help with its installation:

We install cranial bars on the surface of the beams.
We tightly install unedged boards about thirty millimeters thick across the bars. Even the use of low-grade lumber treated with anesthetics is allowed.
We create a thermal insulation layer on top. Suitable materials for this are listed above. It is also worth mentioning the possibility of implementation. What will be the most effective, but also expensive solution.

tongue and groove floorboard.

Subsequently, linoleum or laminate can be laid on the rough surface. The finishing one is covered with several layers of varnish.

The price of such work is relatively low, which makes this method the most accessible. A significant disadvantage is poor thermal insulation.

Double plank

Double coating, as we noted earlier, means the presence of both rough and finishing layers.

The following instructions will help with its installation:

We install cranial bars on the surface of the beams.
We tightly install unedged boards about thirty millimeters thick across the bars. Even the use of low-grade lumber treated with anesthetics is allowed.
We create a thermal insulation layer on top. Suitable materials for this are listed above. It is also worth mentioning the possibility of implementation. What will be the most effective, but also expensive solution.

A tongue-and-groove floor board is a lightweight solution to the problem.” href=”https://shkolapola.ru/derevyannie/394-shpuntovannaya-doska-dlya-pola”>tongue-and-groove floor board.

Subsequently, linoleum or laminate can be laid on the rough surface. The finishing one is covered with several layers of varnish.

The price of such work is relatively low, which makes this method the most accessible. A significant disadvantage is poor thermal insulation.

Double plank

Double coating, as we noted earlier, means the presence of both rough and finishing layers.

The following instructions will help with its installation:

We install cranial bars on the surface of the beams.
We tightly install unedged boards about thirty millimeters thick across the bars. Even the use of low-grade lumber treated with anesthetics is allowed.
We create a thermal insulation layer on top. Suitable materials for this are listed above. It is also worth mentioning the possibility of implementation. What will be the most effective, but also expensive solution.

I-11=»»>Concrete flooring

It is necessary to pay attention to this method of resolving the issue.

Although this is not the most harmonious solution to the issue, it can also be used.

We determine the level of the screed by marking it along the perimeter of the walls.
Cover the base with plastic film for waterproofing.
Pour in the cement mortar and also cover the top with film to speed up hardening.
We moisten the surface for a month to prevent it from cracking.
Next, for convenience, you can use a self-leveling mixture and pour it onto the concrete screed surface.

.
Linoleum tiles: selection and technology for installing vinyl covering” href=”https://shkolapola.ru/elast/linoleym/raznovidnosti/288-linoleumnaya-plitka”>tiles, laminate, linoleum

I-12=»»>Conclusion

The wooden house is cozy, warm, bright and lively. Floors in such a structure should be made of a similar material to enhance the positive effects.

A cement base is also suitable, but it will always give off an alien feel in the abode of nature. In addition, an appropriate foundation should be laid under it.

Wood flooring has several ways of implementation. Choose the one that best suits your preferences, needs and budget. And be sure to take care of high-quality insulation.

The video in this article will provide more material on this topic. In general, installing floors in a log house is not very difficult. Good luck with your construction work!

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A strong construction of crowns in a wooden frame alone will not be enough without strengthening them with logs. In addition, without them it will be impossible to lay either the floor or the ceiling. What they are, how they are installed, and construction features will be described below.

Preparatory work and installation of logs

Before starting work, black soil is removed from the underground, and the space is filled with fine gravel or river sand. The bedding level should be higher than the ground level around the house. This will eliminate the possibility of water getting into the underground space.

Wooden floors are laid on logs - beams that are laid on the foundation and fasteners, such as metal corners, are pulled together with the lower crown, or cut into the second crown.

Laying joists without support posts

Usually, preference is given to the first method, since the insertion violates the integrity of the log structure. If the logs are more than 3 m long, then it is necessary to provide concrete or brick pillars on which they will rest. For their construction:

After filling the subfloor, it is necessary to make markings. The distance between the lags can be up to 100 cm, between the posts there is about 80 cm;
According to the markings, columns of the same height are constructed from brick or concrete. This must be carefully monitored, since different heights can lead to distortions and deformation of the floor over time;
After the solution hardens, waterproofing is laid on the columns, which will protect the logs from exposure to water. With the help of additional layers of waterproofing, minor deviations in column height can be leveled out.

After this, logs are pinned onto the posts and fastened to the lower crown of the log house. It should be remembered that logs are most susceptible to moisture and possible microorganisms, so it is recommended to use cedar or larch as a material.

What are ceilings and floors?

The fact that the house is made of wood implies that all parts of the construction are made of this material. Thus, logs are wooden floors that serve to enhance the stability of the log structure and as a base for the floor and ceiling. Logs in a log house are important elements in the construction of a residential building.
They come in several types: Let's take a closer look at the advantages and disadvantages of all. What do you need to know about each of them before starting construction? Pros:

Now about the cons:

Weight. This is due to the fact that shrinkage of the house can deform the entire structure. And then the weight of the log will be a threatening factor for the ceilings. This is especially true for multi-storey construction.
Price. If, when buying a turnkey house, the cost of lumber is not specified separately in the contract, then you need to ask a company representative about this. It may turn out that they will charge for them separately, but a solid log, whether it be the floor joists of a log house or the ceiling ones, is not cheap.
It will not be easy to install such structures. After all, you will need more than one thing.

Classification of floors

Based on the installation location, the design divides:

Residential floors are interconnected (including the attic).
Non-residential attic space from a heated space.
Basement or basement space from living quarters.

Therefore, floors are classified into:

interfloor;
attics;
basement

Features of types of floors

Each partition in a residential building performs its assigned functions, therefore, when constructing a structure, the emphasis is on the required properties:

For basement structures, the main function is thermal insulation, especially if there is no basement or the house is placed on a high base. The solution to the problem is the use of effective modern insulation materials.
Interfloor ceilings carry a significant load, so the emphasis is on strengthening the structure, as well as on reliable sound insulation.
A large amount of heat escapes through attic structures, so when constructing such floors, insulation is used, as well as a vapor barrier that prevents the formation of condensation.

Timber logs

Unfortunately, this option has more disadvantages:

High cracking potential. It is best to use timber for the floor. Or take a section for the ceiling no smaller than the one from which the crowns were erected.
The beam is springy. Having danced on housewarming day, the owner risks first jumping on the trampoline and then falling into the basement due to a broken ceiling. It’s scary to think what awaits such lags on the ceiling.
When the house shrinks, there is a possibility that they may be pulled out of the grooves. And even inserting a log into a frame and then securing it is little hope for stability. Of course, nothing bad will happen before the construction of the rafter system.

But shrinkage is a phenomenon that happens all the time. Therefore, when the lags “play” is an open question.

How to make floors in a log house

The future peace and comfort of the whole family depends on how well the floors in the log house are made. This stage of work should be taken extremely seriously, so that later there will be no various overlaps in the work. Let's look at how to make a floor in a log house. There are several options for floor designs. You can make floors in a log house using either wood or other materials.

High-quality floor finishing makes it possible to live comfortably in the house.

Depending on the option chosen, you may need:

Self-installation

Next, it’s worth describing the process in detail - how to install logs in a log house. This is important information for beginners. So, let's start with the floors; the actual installation of the ceilings is no different from this:

Having chosen the option, you need to start inserting from the second crown of the log house, already laid and secured with dowels.
The insertion of lags is carried out using the dovetail method. That is, the gash represents a carved void in the crown, and the log is a figure. By inserting one into the other, fastening is performed. The crown should not be cut down before it comes out. It is enough if the “tail” is equal to half of the log or timber.
The elements need to be secured using reliable material - one notch will not be enough. The longitudinal logs are always placed first, then the transverse ones. The pitch of one from the other is calculated from the material - the log can be laid at a distance of 1300 mm, and the boards will require no more than 700 mm.
After installation, the question of how to embed logs into a log house is no longer of interest; you need to give the house time to shrink and look at the behavior of the newborn elements. It is quite possible that after some time there will be a need to correct them.

Causes and possible solutions to lag-related problems:

Falling out of cutting or cutting areas due to inappropriate size. This may indicate a low qualification of the hewer.
Deflection indicates poor drying of the material. This is especially noticeable when installing log joists. Protruding - the same thing.
Also, ceilings may generally fall out of the grooves if the deformation of the log house is severe. Therefore, to avoid this, there is no need to mount the ceiling elements immediately and make them exactly to length. It's better to cut it off later.
When it comes to fasteners, it is important to remember that they must fit snugly into the wood and even be recessed into it.
If, after a period of time, damage is noticed on the material, then ignoring it risks the whole house. It is better to replace such a lag or try to fix it by chipping. But if there is no effect, you need to buy a new one.

That's all. The process that requires attention is outlined. However, if you still have questions, don’t hesitate to ask them to experienced ones.

Selecting the material for load-bearing structures, which are logs, requires great care. The stability of the structure as a whole depends on this. One should not neglect the method of cutting and chopping - they were not invented in vain, and have been tested for centuries.

Until the house has been shrinked and dried, you should not do any work in the log house, and even more so there can be no talk about the rafter system. It is better to devote this forced downtime to supplying communications and choosing interior decoration. After all, with the finishing touches coming soon, these benefits of civilization will be needed more than ever. Good luck!

Methods and rules for installing floor and ceiling joists in a log house

Log floors on floor beams

When building a wooden house, the most logical and optimal option for the floor is its construction along the floor beams. This is the most common option and professionals don’t see the point in looking for a replacement. This method will help raise the floor to the desired height and allow you to leave room for a basement, as well as eliminate possible contact between the floor and groundwater.

The construction of the floor along the floor beams raises the flooring to the required height, completely eliminating its contact with groundwater.

Depending on the specifics of the construction of the house, the beams are placed either in the frame of the house behind the ground floor, made of brick (concrete), or at the level of the 3rd or 4th crown, counting from the ground, in the case of using only wooden building materials.

The placement of beams, or rather their end parts, can be in the bulk of the log house or through. The through arrangement is more reliable, since the resulting condensate will be able to escape through the end of the beam. Please note that the ends of the beams must be treated with an antiseptic composition, which will protect them from exposure to moisture and various types of bacterial infections.

If the beams in the structure of your house are more than 3 m long, then they need additional support. These can be beams placed on the end, or brick columns, or wooden ridges. Just like the ends of the beams, all wooden parts in contact with the soil must be treated with an antiseptic composition without fail.

If you choose pillars made of brick as support, then you need to build them on a fairly solid foundation. It would be better if it were concrete slabs. You can fill these with your own hands or purchase ready-made factory-made ones. Under the base of these slabs it is necessary to lay roofing material, which will serve as a waterproofing layer.

Experts recommend using building materials that have flat end sides as floor beams: beams, half-beams, and so on. Its cross-section must fully correspond to the cross-section of the material from which the permanent walls are made.

Return to contents

What are ceilings and floors?

They come in several types:

Solid log.
Prefabricated.
Timber.

Let's take a closer look at the advantages and disadvantages of all. What do you need to know about each of them before starting construction?

Solid log

If the owner understands the importance of solid logs in house construction, then it is no secret that he will choose just such floors for his own home. They are supplied along with the material according to the contract. What are they good for? Firstly, there is no doubt about their stability - the array has always been famous for this quality. Secondly, when turning a log into ceiling joists in a log house or flooring, material suppliers know exactly how much sapwood needs to be removed without damaging the log.

Further, it is an important fact that the internal appearance of a wooden house must match the external one. That is, if the log house is a log, the logs should be the same - it’s very beautiful.

Now about the cons:

Weight. This is due to the fact that shrinkage of the house can deform the entire structure. And then the weight of the log will be a threatening factor for the ceilings. This is especially true for multi-storey construction.
Price. If, when buying a turnkey house, the cost of lumber is not specified separately in the contract, then you need to ask a company representative about this. It may turn out that they will charge for them separately, but a solid log, whether it be the floor joists of a log house or the ceiling ones, is not cheap.
It will not be easy to install such structures. After all, you will need more than one thing.

Timber logs

Unfortunately, this option has more disadvantages:

High cracking potential. It is best to use timber for the floor. Or take a section for the ceiling no smaller than the one from which the crowns were erected.
The beam is springy. Having danced on housewarming day, the owner risks first jumping on the trampoline and then falling into the basement due to a broken ceiling. It’s scary to think what awaits such lags on the ceiling.

When the house shrinks, there is a possibility that they may be pulled out of the grooves. And even inserting a log into a frame and then securing it is little hope for stability. Of course, nothing bad will happen before the construction of the rafter system.

But shrinkage is a phenomenon that happens all the time. Therefore, when the lags “play” is an open question.

Prefabricated structures

They consist of three boards with a cross-section of 50*150 mm, fastened together with pieces of the same lumber and anchor bolts, and laid on edge. Today this design is considered the most reliable.

When inserted, they are held firmly in place.

They are processed before installation, which is easier than climbing the ceiling to get to a log or timber.

They will not spoil the appearance, because in this case it is customary to sew up the ceiling.

Well, the disadvantages of such logs are the same as for wood in general. That is, susceptibility to rotting, shrinkage, etc.

Self-installation

Having chosen the option, you need to start inserting from the second crown of the log house, already laid and secured with dowels.
The insertion of lags is carried out using the dovetail method. That is, the gash represents a carved void in the crown, and the log is a figure. By inserting one into the other, fastening is performed. The crown should not be cut down before it comes out. It is enough if the “tail” is equal to half of the log or timber.
The elements need to be secured using reliable material - one notch will not be enough. The longitudinal logs are always placed first, then the transverse ones. The pitch of one from the other is calculated from the material - the log can be laid at a distance of 1300 mm, and the boards will require no more than 700 mm.
After installation, the question of how to embed logs into a log house is no longer of interest; you need to give the house time to shrink and look at the behavior of the newborn elements. It is quite possible that after some time there will be a need to correct them.

Causes and possible solutions to lag-related problems:

Falling out of cutting or cutting areas due to inappropriate size. This may indicate a low qualification of the hewer.
Deflection indicates poor drying of the material. This is especially noticeable when installing log joists. Protruding - the same thing.
Also, ceilings may generally fall out of the grooves if the deformation of the log house is severe. Therefore, to avoid this, there is no need to mount the ceiling elements immediately and make them exactly to length. It's better to cut it off later.
When it comes to fasteners, it is important to remember that they must fit snugly into the wood and even be recessed into it.
If, after a period of time, damage is noticed on the material, then ignoring it risks the whole house. It is better to replace such a lag or try to fix it by chipping. But if there is no effect, you need to buy a new one.

That's all. The process that requires attention is outlined. However, if you still have questions, don’t hesitate to ask them to experienced ones.

Based on materials from the site: https://1drevo.ru

To install the floor of a wooden room, logs are used. They are round logs made of pine or other types of wood. An important condition for their installation is low humidity of the building material. Alignment of log logs is carried out if during assembly the condition of compliance with the level was not met, the lumber has defects, or it is not dried well enough. Therefore, all work related to the installation of the floor is carried out several months after the completion of construction, after the log house has given its final shrinkage.

Name of works	Unit	Price
Floor construction
Installation of logs	PC.	1000
Alignment of logs	m2	200
Subfloor in a log house	m2	220
Vapor and waterproofing	m2	70
Insulation of the floor in the log house (50mm)	m2	60
Laying plywood	m2	220
Finish floors in a log house	m2	400
Skirting	m.p.	100

Get an individual price

Interfloor ceiling in a log house

Question:

Semenych, my respect. I have this problem: a log house with 8*9 five-wall walls. The builders laid interfloor beams made of logs for me. What should I do? Do I need to plan logs to form beams?

Alik, Ufa.

Answer:

Hello, Alik from Ufa!

Construction in Moscow and Moscow region

We work with a guarantee! Wide range of construction services.
Foundation, walls, ceilings, roofing, turnkey! +7 (905) 797-20-34

luxurycomfort.ru

Other questions on the topic of log houses:

Replacing logs in log houses

Cost of replacing the top rims of a log house
Rotten crowns in the middle of the wall
Replacing a log frame with a brick or block
Replacing the lower crowns of a log house
Replacing rotten crowns with bricks
How to strengthen a corner in a log house
When you need a fifth wall in a log house
Vibrations in the log house
Remove the three lower crowns of a log house
Replacing a wall in a log house
Replacing the lower crown with brick or foam blocks
Joining logs of different diameters
Replace the corner of a log frame with sleepers
Replacing the lower crowns of a log house with a concrete wall
Rotten log in a log house
Restoration and cladding of a timber frame
Reconstruction of an old log house
Replacing a rotten corner of a house
Repair of rotten beams in a log house
Replacing the lower crowns of a log house with blocks
Replacing rotten logs of a log house
Replacement of the lower crown of the house
Replacement of a main wall made of timber
Transfer of logs in height in a log house
Alignment and replacement of the lower crown of the log house
Replacing rotten logs under the window with blocks
2 corners rotted at the level of the log house windows
Cost of work to replace the top rims of a log house
The log house is rotting next to the vent
The wall near the log house in the five-wall building has rotted
Repair of old logs
Replacing a log house wall with a foam block
Replacing the lower crown in a wooden house
Replacing logs in a log house
Replacing logs eaten by insects
Replacing the lower crown of a timber frame
Replacing the lower crowns in the house
Replacing the top rotted crown of a log house
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About caulking log houses

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Caulking and insulation of a log house
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How to caulk a log house covered with clapboard
Should tow for a log house smell?
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Re-caulking of a log house
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Caulking tight logs
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Log caulking
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Re-caulking of a log house
The basics of caulking a log house
Caulking and sanding of a log house
Caulk of a log house from the inside
Do-it-yourself log caulk
Caulking of a log house made of rounded logs
Sanding timber

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How to cover a timber façade
Waterproofing the frame of an old house from the foundation
A log house without nails is being pulled apart
Sheathing a log house
Cutting the lower crown in the log house
Settlement of a log house made of used timber
The log house rotted in the castles
The corners of the log house are rotting
How to strengthen a log house
Work plan for interior finishing of the log house
Log processing procedure
How to lay a log house in the rain
Cut the lower crowns of the log house
Sheathing a log house immediately after construction
Heating and windows in a new log house
Processing the crown of an already built house
Painting a timber house
Blind area and shrinkage of the log house
How to enlarge a house made of timber
Connecting a timber house with a brick extension
Finishing a timber frame with jute rope
Diameter of a log for a permanent home
Treating the log house with an antiseptic during assembly
Reconstruction of a wooden house
Connecting timber in cuttings
Protection of the ends of the timber at the corners of the log house
How to connect two log houses together
Cutting a balcony doorway in a log house
When to casing a newly assembled log house
Insulation of gables made of lining
Gaps between the logs of the log house pediment
How to preserve logs before cutting a log house
Raise the frame to increase the ceiling height
Methods for joining timber in the walls of a log house
Raise a log house to increase the underground floor
Cladding a log house with clapboard before shrinking in winter
When to remove the compensating jacks of a log house
Log house for three years in the open air without a roof
How to make a cut in a log house
Make a house from an old bathhouse (timber)
Moving the log house to another location
Log house hanging on dowels
The fifth wall in a log house made of smaller timber
Should I paint the backing board in a log house?
Remove mats to increase log ceilings
The log house does not match the foundation
Ceiling mats in the log house
Construction from fire monitors
How to remove bark from an already assembled aspen log house
Transporting an old log house
Connecting internal timber walls with external ones
How to repair cracks in a log
Gap between log and foundation
Alignment of the first crown of the log house
Stages of arrangement of the assembled log house
Treatment of the log house after installation in the summer
Processing the ends of the frame from the outside
The log house floated - the walls moved
An old wooden house sank
Leveling the crowns when assembling a log house
How to close the opening between the log house and the foundation
How to straighten a log house
Sheathe a log house with protrusions with corrugated sheets
How to process the ends of a log house
Collecting the first crowns of a timber frame
Riser frame
Preservation of the log house during assembly in rainy times
Forgot to waterproof the log house from the foundation
Installation of log shrinkage compensators
Interventional gaps in a house made of profiled timber
Gaps between logs in a house
Communications and finishing in a timber house
Precision when cutting log houses
Which log house will be warmer?
Log house made of timber 200 by 120
Old log house - reconstruction or demolition
Partitions in a log house
Internal partition in a log house
Beginning of finishing of shrunken timber frame
Double timber construction technology
Processing the log house from the outside
Log shrinkage process
The walls of the log house collapse during shrinkage
Insulation of a log house from the inside
How to build a house from sleepers
The logs were kicked out of the log house
Supports (pillars) instead of crosscuts in a 9x10 house
Do-it-yourself timber log house without experience
Preservation of a house made of rounded logs for the winter
Embed additional beams into the frame
Backing crown - installation tricks
Log house on brick walls
Sequence of work in the log house
How to make a load-bearing partition in a log house
The log house got wet during assembly
How to seal cracks in a log house
Align the vertical wall of a log house
Vents in timber on foundation
Timber 200 by 200 construction nuances
The log house turned blue, what should I do?
How to seal cracks in cutouts from the outside
You can live on the second floor of a log house for shrinkage
Replace rotten logs with mortar
A non-load-bearing log has shrunk
Replacing logs with boards in a house project
Vertical supports in a log house for shrinkage
Does a large log house need recutting?
Metal tiles on a non-shrunken log house
Permissible gaps between timber crowns
Gaps in log beams
Replacing parts of rotten logs in a log house
The logs of the log house are shaking
The log house was poorly assembled
The gap between the log log and the foundation
Protect an unfinished log house for the winter
How to save a log house without a roof
Log finishing service
Assembling a profiled log house in the rain
Gaps when fastening profiled timber
Sealing cracks in a bathhouse
Processing timber with a blowtorch
Butt beam - is it reliable?
The wall of the log house is littered
How to align protruding ends in a built timber house
Transferring beams in a log house in height
The corners of the log house disappear from the timber during assembly
The log house is wet, what should I do?
Does a log house need a fifth wall?
How to assemble a log house 10 by 11
Restoring a log house after a fire
Processing of a log house made of rounded logs
Extension of a log house when replacing the roof
Sand under the crowns for insulation
Methods for lifting a bath to replace the crowns
Impregnation of the log house inside and out
The façade of the log house leaned
Log shrinkage - problems
Treatment of timber against bugs
The smell in the house is from sleepers
How to preserve the light color of a fresh log house
Estimate for a house made of timber 7 to 9
Treatment of exposed ceiling beams
Strengthening the corner of a log house
What is the dowel pitch?
Protection of the lower crown of the log house
How to check the diagonals of a log house
Which timber to choose, square or rectangular?

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Spruce and pine log house
Sequence of work when finishing a timber house
Insulate an aspen log house from the outside
How to install a casing on a log house
What to put between the crowns
Should I trim the paws of a log house?
What is the best way to impregnate a log house?
Window opening in a log house - how to seal it
Gaps in the assembled frame
Support pillars in a timber house
How to move the 5th wall in a log house
Ants and the lower crown of the house
Sanding and processing of the log house after installation
Barked or planed log for log house
Repairing the corner of a log house of an old wooden house
Should window openings in a log house be closed when it is in storage?
Consultation on the size and shape of the log house
Questions about construction from profiled timber
Log house and foam block on a single slab
Preparing an unfinished log house for winter
Longitudinal cuts in a log house
Cracks in the ends of logs
Should I paint a log house with tikuril?
Strengthening the corners of the log house
How to secure a cross beam in a log house
Ventilation gap between insulation and frame
Moss or tow for building a log house
Shrinkage of a timber house
Fifth wall in the log house
How to raise a 6 by 6 log house
Distance from the corner of the frame to the windows or doors
How to cut off the protrusions of the corners of a log house
Log house without nails
How to clean a linden bathhouse from darkening
Impregnation of a log house with fire-bioprotection
Velo log house
Questions about cutting a bathhouse after installation
Painting a log house
Blackness between the crowns of the log house
Types of cutting corners of half beams or carriages
Attaching beam supports to a log wall
Strengthening logs in a log house 7 meters long
How to sort through the log gables of a log house
The beam was squeezed out of the wall
Is a matitsa needed in a 3 by 3 m bathhouse?
Priority work after installing the log house
Entrance door in a log house
Maintaining the level when assembling the log house
The corner of the log house and the lower log have rotted

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The sequence of finishing a timber frame
Insulation of a settled log house
Restoring a burnt larch frame
Quality of a 40-year-old oak log
Permanent roof on a newly assembled log house
Cracks in logs
What time of year is it better to cut a log house for a bathhouse?
What and how to make partitions inside a log house
Ceiling beams in a timber frame
Installation of a metal door in a log house
The crown molding of a log house
Questions about assembling a log house at home
Turnkey log house for a season - is it possible?
Arrangement of the subfloor in a rounded log house
Common roof for a new log house and its extension
Ventilation system in the log house underground
How much does it cost to change the lower crowns of a house?
Finishing the log house after shrinkage
Reinforcement as a dowel for a log house
What to rest the floor joists on in a log house
Attaching timber to a log frame
Cover an old house with a new frame
Extension made of foam blocks to a house made of timber
Wet lower rims of a new timber frame
House made of sleepers
How to cover a log house on screw piles with bricks
How to strengthen the motherboard in a log house
Birch log house
Sauna log - pine or aspen
The lower crowns of a larch frame as a plinth
Adjusting anchors for shrinkage of the log house
How to properly assemble a log house
Octagonal timber frame
Is a fifth wall needed in a log house?
An alternative to dowels when assembling a log house
Problems after shrinkage of the log house
What to make partitions from in a log house
Tongue-and-groove slabs as walls in a log house
Insulation of the log house inside
How to strengthen floor joists in a timber frame
Log houses in Kolomna
House made of timber or frame house
Insulation of a log house from the inside
Work plan after shrinkage of the log house
Squeezed logs out of the log house
Where to start after installing a log bathhouse
Rounded log with Finnish profile
The timber frame is spreading
How to align the geometry of a log house
Large gaps between logs

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Are dowels needed for profiled timber?
Is it worth overpaying for profiled timber?
Repairing the corners of a log house
How to cover an unfinished log house for the winter
The beam bends out of the log house
Construction of a log house in the rain
Processing and insulation of external walls of a log house made of timber
How far can the outer ends of the logs be trimmed?
Ceiling beams 7.5 m in a house made of timber
How to attach a room attached to a house
Technology for assembling a log house from timber
Waterproofing log walls outside
Replacement of the lower crown of an old house
Interior finishing of the corners of the log house in the paw
Dry brown rot in log timber
Shrinkage of timber frame
Roof on only installed log house
How to fill the gaps between the log house and the outbuilding
When to install a log house for a house
How far can the ends of logs be trimmed?
When should a log house be treated with impregnation?
Cutting the end corners of the log house
Leveling timber in a log house
Protection of the log frame from the outside
Replacing log walls with stone
How to seal the gaps between the foundation and the log house
How to cover a timber house
How and with what to seal the gap between the foundation and the log house
Bark on logs - to remove or not?
Sandwich panel or log house?
Preservation of log wood
How to change the lower crown
Settlement of a log house made of laminated veneer lumber
Log house repair
What kind of foundation is needed for a log house made of 9 by 12 m timber?
How much timber is needed for a log house 9 by 12 meters
Foundation for a log house with chopped gables
When to put a roof on a log house
How to seal cracks in a timber frame
Log house on the spring
Preparing a log house for winter
Oak backing for the lower crown of the log house
Log house repair
Photo of a chopped log house

Log houses and their maintenance

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Construction in Moscow and Moscow region

We work with a guarantee! Wide range of construction services.
Foundation, walls, ceilings, roofing, turnkey! +7 (905) 797-20-34

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Strengthening old wooden beams
Covering the first floor of a house without a basement
Insulation of wooden floors with moss
About lumber for floors and roofs
Strengthening or replacing ceiling joists
Floors on the ground
Bathroom floor tiles
Laminate flooring in the country house
Subfloor and roofing felt
Replacing the support beam
Finishing floor on old floor with insulation
Tiled floor in a wooden house
How to insulate the underground
Laying parquet boards in an apartment
What to put on the veranda floor boards
Updating an old subfloor
Fastening the floor joists
Subfloor repair
Waterproofing plank floors
Floor beams - reinforcement
Thickness of plywood on joists
How to remove creaking wooden floors
Strengthening the interfloor ceiling
Laminated plywood for wood floor repair
Leveling floors during house shrinkage
Insulation of wooden floors
Installation of floor slabs
Attaching beams to a vertical concrete wall
How to join three skirting boards in a corner
Floor joist supports
Floor beams for a span of 7 m
Floor installation in a timber house
How to make a floor in an extension from foam block
Which timber to choose for a beam floor
Repair of bath floors
Second floor terrace floor
Round timber floors
How to strengthen wooden floors
How to change a rotten beam
Replacing floor beams in an adobe house
Support to strengthen the beam
Ceiling joists
Concrete floor under laminate
Maximum distance between floor beams
The middle of the wooden house sank
Repairing floors in an adobe house
Heated floors in a wooden house
Raise the floor in an old house above ground level
Replacing floor joists in an old house

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Attic floor repair
Floors - asbestos-cement pipes for pillars under logs
Attaching joists to slabs
Strengthening logs in a log house 7 meters long
Bathroom floor installation
Insulation of floors using Izospan B film
Floor ventilation below ground level
The floors in the timber house are rotting
Insulation of floors on a concrete screed under linoleum
How to make garage floors
Types of flooring for the home
What thickness of the floor board should be 28, 36, 40...
Fastening floor joists in a panel house
Concrete floor in a wooden house
Repair of wooden floor on the balcony
Installation of logs in a timber house
Concrete floor screed over Sip floor
Strengthening and insulating the floor from blocks
How to level floor joists
Strengthening wooden floor beams
Should a concrete floor be connected to the house?
Insulation of regularly flooded floors
Insulating the floor of a house on sleepers
How to secure floor joists over a round log
Replacing rotten floors
Glassine in the underground of a timber house
The film is blowing up over the subfloor
Questions about floors in the garage 2nd floor
Arrangement of the subfloor in a rounded log house
Monolithic floors on the ground
What is the best way to cover the walls and floor of a garden house?
How to level a concrete floor in a panel house
How to level the floor in the kitchen
Floor in bathhouse sink
What to rest the floor joists on in a log house
How to strengthen interfloor joists in a brick house
Economical interfloor ceilings
Insulation of concrete floors
What is better to put under linoleum
Subfloor repair
Floor installation using gas silicate
Replacing floors in a country house
Floors made of moisture-resistant slabs
How to lay linoleum on an old floor in an apartment
Leveling floors in an old house
Treatment of genital lags
Choosing floorboards for your home
Thermal vapor barrier in the floor pie
Raise sagging floors without dismantling

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Thermal and sound insulation of the floor in a panel house
The floor in the hallway of a private house is rotting
Rotten floor in a wooden house
How to change the floor under a fireplace
Concrete floor in garage
How to wax a floorboard
How to make a wood floor in a garage
Repair of concrete floor on the balcony
Replacing subfloors
Moisture-resistant laminate for wooden floors
How to cheaply re-floor an apartment
Bathroom sink floors
Arrangement of rough floors
Sagging joists and floors
How to change a rotten floor
How to lay the floor on a loggia correctly
Wooden floor construction in more detail
Subfloors made of larch on the 2nd floor
Second floor subfloor
How to hide air conditioner pipes in a tile floor
Replacing a rotten floor
Floor repair in a panel house
Lay floors on the attic loggia
The new wood floor has started to rot.
Repairing a wooden floor in a country house
How to insulate a wooden floor
Again about floor insulation
Larch loggia floors
Foundation and floors of adobe house
Floor in a finished (transportable) bathhouse
How to arrange the floor on an open balcony
Underfloor insulation
Connecting the ends of the floor boards
Concrete floor in garage
How to level a subfloor
How to lay a new floor on an old one
How to lay a subfloor
How to raise floors in your home
How to lay floors beautifully
Ventilation in the underground
How to level log beams for flooring
The subfloor beams began to rot
Laying the floor with a board without a tenon
Floors in a country house
Floor on the loggia balcony
Floors - leveling log joists
Asbestos cement pipes to lighten concrete floors
Insulation of underground space
Preparing the base for laminate flooring

Floors

All questions to Semenych about construction

Semenych (author of materials)

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Leveling floor joists in a wooden house: basic methods, advantages, disadvantages

There are 3 main methods of leveling log logs, tested by masters:

● Chopping the surface with an axe, plane, saw, chisels. To do this, a rope level is placed along each log, along which further alignment occurs. Next, using an electric saw, chainsaw, or ax, a layer of wood is removed, not reaching the marked line of 5 cm. The remaining layer is removed with chisels (plane). The disadvantage of this method is that it is labor intensive and reduces the strength of the structure, as the thickness of the material becomes smaller.
● Fastening of edged boards. The sides of the log are subject to cutting off part of the wood. An edged board with its wide side, set straight, is attached to the resulting planes. Fastening is done with hardware with a maximum length of 150 mm, staples, fastening step - 0.5-1 m. The recommended board size is 40 mm thick, 100/150 mm wide.
● Horizontal installation of edged boards. Their leveling occurs by laying wedges between the lag and the board. But the ceiling height decreases.

All methods have been tested by the company’s specialists, they give a good result - a flat floor.

Correct level marking when leveling log logs

Alignment of log logs is carried out according to the level. To do this, a basic “zero” floor level is marked, placed 5 centimeters above the main one. Using a laser device or a long tube filled with water, nails are driven at the same height in each corner. Along the perimeter of the room, twine (construction fishing line) is attached to them. More nails are placed above each lag, on which a thread running along the log is also secured. Then equal distances are measured from the obtained level and corresponding marks are made on the tree. This creates the layer that needs to be removed for leveling.

We trust the leveling of floor joists in a wooden house to professionals

In order not to be disappointed in the results obtained, engage professional craftsmen and carpenters to perform work related to the arrangement of a wooden house. They must know all the features of the work being performed, the material, and the technology. Don't try to save money by doing everything yourself. When arranging floors, your mistakes will become fatal. It is recommended to contact official companies that are ready to enter into a written cooperation agreement. This way you will protect yourself from unscrupulous performers.

4 reasons to contact us for lag leveling

To ensure the floor is perfectly level, contact.

We will provide our clients with:

● Drawing up an estimate based on measurements made by our specialists. Their departure is free for you.
● Services of all types of log finishing (carried out by craftsmen from Russia and Belarus).
● Independent delivery of your own scaffolding (for working with logs on the attic, second floor).
● Possibility of payment only for work actually completed.

Call us, we will make the logs smooth, right on time!

Installation of floors in a log house | Srubov

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Our works

Chopped bathhouse 5.2x5.2+2.6, Peniki village, Lomonosovsky district, Leningrad region. Season 2014

Log bathhouse 6x8.5, Gorelovo, St. Petersburg. Season 2013

Log bathhouse 5.0x5.0+2.5, Krasnoe Selo, St. Petersburg. Season 2020

The installation of floors must begin after the frame has been assembled and the roofing work has been completed. Traditionally, in a wooden house, floors are made of the same material. Less common is a concrete base. Depending on the seasonality of the home, a decision is made to insulate the floor. For year-round living it is mandatory; in a country house where you plan to live only in the summer, the floor can be left cold.

Concrete floor

Concrete coating is the best option for a bathhouse, since it is not afraid of high humidity, because water only improves its technical performance. Concrete flooring will not rot, which distinguishes it from wood flooring. Moreover, it is easy to maintain and drains water easily. Concrete flooring can be covered with regular tiles to make the room more comfortable and attractive.

Preparing the base

At this stage you will need crushed stone or gravel, you will also need natural stone or broken brick. The soil must be compacted and leveled in advance, and then a brick block must be laid to a height of 15 cm, covered with crushed stone at a depth of 10 cm and compacted thoroughly again.

After completion of the work, the first layer of concrete begins to be poured to a height of 5 cm. This must be done so that the floor maintains an inclination towards the drainage basin.

When the solution has set, expanded clay is poured on top of it to a height of 8 cm and the concrete solution is poured again, but this time it is reinforced with a metal mesh. Next, the concrete surface is leveled and smoothed with an appropriate tool.

Preparation of a solution with the addition of perlite

Perlite is a component added to concrete mortar to give it thermal insulation properties.

Perlite is light and volatile, which means you can only work with it in a draft-free room.

The concrete solution is prepared in the following sequence:

2 buckets of perlite are poured into a concrete mixer.
Pour in 10 liters of water.
Stir.

When the perlite is mixed with water, 5 kg of cement is loaded into the mixture. Next, the solution is stirred for at least 10 minutes, after which water (5 liters) is again poured into it and stirred until a homogeneous consistency. At the last stage, 2 liters of water and 1 bucket of perlite are poured in, and the solution is mixed until a loose mixture is obtained.

Each time the solution should settle for about 10 minutes, and only then can you continue stirring. At some point, the solution will begin to exhibit the property of plasticity. Excess water may also be released during the process.

Installation of a log floor on floor beams

This option for installing a floor in a log house is the most logical among all others. The method is considered the most common. Even professionals advise making just such an overlap, as it is quite easy to install. Such a floor in a log house has other advantages. It becomes possible to raise the floor to almost any height. You can also think about arranging a basement.

Another plus is that the ceiling will not come into contact with the ground, and therefore it will last quite a long time.

If we are talking about constructing a floor in a log house made exclusively of wood, then the floor beams need to be installed on the third or fourth row of logs. If bricks were used in construction to organize the foundation, then the beams are placed immediately behind the basement floor.

The end parts of the beams on which the floor will be located can either have a through arrangement or be installed in the frame mass.

The second method is considered less successful. If the beams are arranged according to the end-to-end principle, then they must go outside. Excess condensation will have the opportunity to evaporate. This option allows you to make the floor structure more rigid and reliable. All beams that go outside must be treated with special antiseptic compounds that will protect against rot and mold.

If the beams that are used to organize the floor in the house are more than 3 m long, then they must be installed using additional supporting devices. This will help make the structure more rigid. You can install wooden or brick pillars below. It is also worth remembering that if the beams touch the ground or soil, they must be treated with antiseptic compounds.